DISCLAIMER: This setup has worked great for me for more than 1000 miles of towing. However, you use these ideas/plans at your own risk. I take no responsibility for anything that might happen as a result of you adapting/using these plans.
HITCH ATTACHMENT DETAILS
About the Studs - I had to find threaded rods and cut studs to fit for my modified bag drop kit. If you are in the Houston area, you can get metric 8mm and 10mm threaded rod at Bayou City Bolt. This is very strong stuff and costs $20 for a meter length. If you cut your own studs, then the 10 mm studs are 3.75" long and the 8mm studs are 4.25 inches long.
NOTE: After I spent the dough, someone suggested that I could buy bolts and cut the heads off... so... DUH... yup... that is another alternative, but long metric bolts are also tough to find.
MORE SPECIFICS ON STUD LENGTH - The best way to determine the stud length is to follow this procedure.
(1) Rattlebar's Nut - these are the original 10 mm and 8 mm nuts that came with Chet's bag drop kit. They go on the outside of the bag frame to hold it on the studs... just like it is in the pic. Regular 10 mm and 8 mm nuts will work just fine... get them in stainless for best look
(2) These are Hitch Doc spacers that came with my (used) HitchDoc to be installed on a standard. They are 10 mm deep (both the 8 and 10mm spacers inside diameter), with a 22 mm outside diameter. You could use stainless steel washers or find/make similar bushings. You could also use two jam nuts... see (3) below.
(3) The HitchDoc kit for bagged bikes includes two 10 mm thick spacers. You put one spacer against the chrome frame rail, then attach the hitch, then add the second spacer, then the bag frame, and bolt the whole thing in with supplied bolts. These are stainless steel 10 mm jamb nuts... just so happens they were 5 mm each thick... so two of them together create a nice 10 mm spacer. Note that in the HitchDoc kit for bags you would get 4 of the 10 mm ID, 10 mm deep spacers noted in (2).
(4) These are stainless steel 8 mm jamb nuts... with a standard 8 mm washer. Two jamb nuts plus one stock washer are just a tad under 10 mm... close enough. Note that in the HitchDoc kit for bags you would get 4 of the 8 mm ID, 10 mm deep spacers noted in (2).
Miscellaneous - if you look carefully, you can see daylight between the hitch and the chrome frame rails... might could shave a mm off the spacer widths but that would be about it.
One last note: You could buy the HitchDoc with all the hardware for a bagged bike. Then, instead of using the supplied bolts, you can cut studs as I did and turn the HitchDoc kit into a bag drop kit. However, I think it is important to use jam nuts (3) and (4), rather than spacers that would be supplied, to insure that the studs don't loosen.
GETTING THE HITCH ON AND OFF
You will notice that with the longer studs getting the hitch off
requires spreading each side in order to remove it. This is easy
to do for two people, but quite a challenge for a single person.
you pull one side loose and the other side pops back. Here is a trick
to making it easy to remove the hitch.
VIEW OF THE BAG FRAME MOUNT AT THE MUFFLER HANGER
For the second pic
(5) The 8 mm washers create a spacer 10 mm thick for the front bag frame mount (on the mufflet hanger). The HitchDoc bag kit includes 2 - 8 mm ID x 22 OD x 10 mm deep spacers to go on these bolts. I'd like to replace these washers with a spacer because they are a hassle.
VIEW OF INSTALLED HITCH
Final Note: The HitchDoc kit does spread your bags out in order to make room for the hitch. It can be a bit of a hassle to get the bag frame cross pipe back on. You have to push things to mate properly, but you don't need to push them too much. Essentially, the kit lets your bags hang in an inverted V rather than being completely parallel to one another.
Write me if you want more information. BeastRider
Back to Main Valk Page
to Herb's Homepage